The Movie: Once Upon a Time in the Middle East / 歡迎來龍餐館
The Director: Muye Wen
The Cast: Shen Teng, Jiang Qiming, Omar Sharif, Aarif Lee Zhi-ting, Sherif Sabby
The Story: Seeking a fresh start, chef Xu Fu travels to the Middle East to support his family and repay his debts. Alongside restaurant manager Ma Junsheng, he transforms the struggling Dragon Restaurant into a thriving business. But when war engulfs the city, their hard-won success is shattered and the restaurant becomes a refuge for those caught in the conflict.
The Review:
War really sucks. The realities of war have an impact on everyone no matter where they are from, who they are, or what beliefs they have. War tends to strip humanity, and war movies tend to do so even more. The typical Hollywood-made war movie has clearly defined heroes and villains, most of the time demonizing foreign countries and people because you need evil to sell glorified heroism. The reality is that we're all people. We're all humans. We're all trying to live our lives peacefully while hopefully being able to enjoy a good meal and that humanity is what director Muye Wen attempts to convey with this story.
I really love how every person in this movie is given an opportunity to be a human being without any sort of stereotypes defining who they are and why they do the things that they do. Through this lens, we understand how characters are radicalized from traumatic experiences and we see how there is so much fear and pain and emotion that's often hidden underneath the facades of bravery and patriotism. I also love how food is really the hero of this story and all of the cooking scenes are treated with the same gloss and glory normally reserved for a primary protagonist.
All of the dishes that are prepared in this movie look absolutely beautiful and there were more than a couple times where I needed to grab a snack because it was all making me so hungry. Lead actor Shen Teng, who plays chef Xu Fu, went through extensive training so that he could be filmed in the kitchen cooking all of the meals instead of using body doubles and camera tricks. Teng, who has been in the business of acting for nearly twenty years, is so good in this movie and a lot of people are saying it may be the defining performance of his career. The actor does a great job of maintaining that sense of humanity and empathy within the story telling and it's just such an honest portrayal of someone who truly cares about his family and the people around him.
When I sat down to watch the movie, I was a little worried that the two hour and twenty-minute run time would be a little long, but the pacing of the storytelling is very well done so it never drags or feels like it needs to hurry along. As it stands, I would have actually liked to have seen more from these characters, but I feel like what we get in this movie is pretty much perfect for the story that's being told. I like that there's not a lot of explaining going on which really helps the pacing. Director Wen assumes the audience will be able to follow along without any hand holding which for me made for a much more fulfilling experience.
Wen also doesn't hold anything back when it comes to the roller coaster of emotions that come with a movie like this. The scenes of war are devastating and heartbreaking while scenes of food and family feel like they are filled with joy and happiness which again speaks to the honesty of what this movie is about. We see conflict as tragic, brutal, and ultimately unnecessary when held up against moments of people caring for each other, sharing meals together, and bonding with each other despite cultural, ethnic, and religious differences. The only real evil that's put on screen is the result of the divisiveness that comes from governments caring more about power and profit versus taking care of people and that's about as authentic of a commentary on war as you will find.
I mentioned the cooking scenes which are so beautifully filmed and the whole movie looks pretty fantastic on screen. This is definitely a movie you want to experience in a theater to get the full intent and emotional impact that the filmmakers have created. It's also nice that we get more of a global perspective on humanity where, oddly enough, everyone in the movie is human even as stereotypes and assumptions are on full display within the interactions and dynamics of the story.
One of the most impactful scenes in the movie, one that really drives the entire point home in an emotionally effective way, involves a US soldier who puts on a display of "manhood" while trying to protect his ego and image in what basically amounts to a man-sized tantrum. But then, when Xu Fu convinces him to eat something created by a perceived enemy, the soldier slowly breaks down and reveals the trauma he's buried deep down and exclaims how he just wants to go home. It's such a pivotal moment and really shows how people can be manipulated and programmed into certain belief systems whether that be a false sense of masculinity or a more extremist view on opposing dynamics.
Along with all of the messaging embedded into the story, the movie is also an epic scale adventure told over many years' time from the perspective of an ordinary man. It's entertaining, it's emotional, and there's just enough comedy added in to make the whole thing a must watch theatrical experience. In the current world we live in, it was very refreshing to see a movie that treats all of its characters with respect and an understanding that is quite uncommon compared to most war movies, or even just movies in general.
Thank you for reading this review. When you go watch this movie, and you really should, I highly recommend having a good meal beforehand or go at a time that allows you to get dinner afterwards. This is also the type of movie that will stick with you, just like a good meal, and you'll want to talk about it and think about it for a long time after it's over.

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